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Guide To Fabrics And Sewing Techniques |
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Type |
Fabric |
Plain Seam Or
Edge Finish
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Seam |
Machine Needle
Size
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Thread Type
And Weight
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Sheer to lighweight |
Gauze,voile,chiffon,organza, crepe de chine,fine lace, tulle,net,georgette |
Stitched and pinked, zigzag |
French,mock French, self-bound,double-stitched |
9/65 |
Extra fine: silk.mercerized cotton,or cotton/polyester
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Lightweight |
Silk,shirtings,gingham,broadcloth,oxford cloth,calico,lightweight,linens,chambray,
seersucker,tricot,eyelet,challis,organdy,
muslin,batiste,dimity,lawn,pique'
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Stitched and pinked, zigzag, selvage |
French,mock French, self-bound |
11/75 |
Extra fine: silk.mercerized cotton; all purpose cotton/polyester
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Light to medium weight knits |
Cotton knits, tricot cotton/polyester knite,jersey knits,light sweater knits,stretch terry,stretch velour |
Zigzag,straight with overedge |
Double-stitched, straight and zigzag, narrow zigzag, straight stretch, elastic stretch
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14/19 Ballpoint |
All-purpose: cotton/polyester or long-fiber polyester |
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Medium weight |
Cotton.wool.wool flannel, rayon, linen and linen types, chintz, wool crepe, gabardine, chino, poplin, denim, corduroy, velvet, velveeteen, velour, taffeta, satin, double knits, sweatshirt knits |
Stitched and pinked, zigzag,selvage turned and stitched, bound finishes
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Welt, lapped, flat-fell, mock flat-fell |
14/90 (Ball point for knits) |
All-purpose cotton/polyester or long-fiber polyester or mercerized cotton |
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Medium weight / Suiting weight |
Wool, wool blends, tweeds, flannels, gabardine, twill, mohair, boucle, heavy poplin, heavy denim, double knits, quilted fabric |
Stitched and pinked, zigzag,selvage bound finishes |
Welt, lapped, flat-fell, mock flat-fell |
14/19 16/100 |
All-purpose cotton/polyester or mercerized cotton
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Medium to heavy weight |
Wool, wool blends, heavy wool flannel, fake fur, fleece, canvas, heavy cotton duck, coating, sailcloth, upholstery fabric |
Stitched and pinked selvage |
Welt, lapped, mock flat- fell |
16/100 18/110 |
Heavy-duty: cotton or cotton/polyester; topstitching and buttonhole twist
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No grain( Non-woven) |
Leather, suede, reptile(natural and man made), buckskin, calfskin, plastic, felt |
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Welt, lapped mock flat- fell |
14/90 16/100 Wedge-
point
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All -purpose or heavy-duty (all types) |
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