Two things determine which glasses suit you: the shape of your face and the coloring of your skin. Get both right and the frame reads as part of your face. Get either wrong and it reads as an object sitting on it.
The Vision Council of America sets out three principles for choosing a frame, and they are worth stating up front because everything below follows from them.
- The frame should repeat your best feature. A blue frame with blue eyes, for example.
- The frame shape should not contrast with the face shape. It should complement, not oppose.
- The frame size should be in scale with the face size.
Base-down triangle
A narrow forehead widening at the cheeks and chin. The aim is to add width and emphasis to the narrow upper third of the face.
- Frames heavily accented with color and detail across the top half.
- Thin rims and vertical lines, which balance the lower face.
- Cat-eye shapes work well.
- The frame should not sit too high on the face.
Avoid large frames, bold colors and square shapes.
Queen Latifah has this face shape.
Base-up triangle or heart shape
A very wide upper third and a small lower third. The aim here is the reverse: minimize the width at the top of the face.
- Frames wider at the bottom than the top.
- Light colors and light materials.
- Rimless styles, which suit this shape particularly well.
Rihanna has this face shape.
Diamond
Narrow at the eye line and the jawline, with high, dramatic cheekbones. This is the rarest face shape.
The aim is to highlight the eyes and bring out the cheekbones.
- Frames with detail or a distinctive brow line.
- Styles heavy at the top.
- Rimless frames.
- Oval and cat-eye shapes.
Jennifer Lopez has this face shape.
Square
A strong jawline and a broad forehead, with width and length in roughly equal proportion. The aim is to lengthen the face and soften its angles.
- Narrow frames.
- Frames with more width than length.
- Narrow oval shapes.
- Slightly curved frames, which counter the angularity.
- Tops of the frames sitting high enough to play down the jawline.
Angelina Jolie has this face shape.
Round
Curved lines with no angles, and width and length in equal proportion. The aim is to add length and introduce angles.
- Angular narrow frames, which add length.
- Rectangular shapes.
- Frames with straight or angular lines.
- Black works particularly well.
Oblong
Longer than it is wide, with a long straight cheek line and sometimes a long nose. The aim is to shorten the face and add width.
- Frames that cover the center of the face.
- Round, deep or low-triangle shapes.
- Strong horizontal lines.
Mandy Moore and Sarah Jessica Parker both have oblong faces.
Color analysis
The Vision Council of America bases frame color on three things: the color of your skin, your eyes and your hair.
The underlying principle is that everyone has either warm or cool coloring, everyone looks best in their own color base, and frame color should follow skin tone.
Warm coloring
Camel, khaki, gold, copper, peach, orange, coral, off-white, fire-engine red, warm blue and blond turquoise.
Cool coloring
Black, rose-brown, blue-gray, plum, magenta, pink, jade, blue and amber.
Beyond face shape
Hair and personality both matter as much as bone structure.
- Long hair as a defining feature. Keep the glasses simple, so they do not compete.
- Short hair. Bolder frames work, because there is less around the face.
- Dark hair and complexion. Bold colors look excellent, but only on someone with the personality to carry them. This is a real consideration rather than a throwaway one: a bold frame draws attention and has to be worn with confidence.
- Match the frame to your eye color where you can.
- Blond hair. Black contrasting frames work well.
- Angular face. Round glasses.
- Long nose. Large oversized frames, or frames with side bars that draw attention toward the temple.
- Small nose. A high bridge in a light color.
Lenses
Lens choice rests on four things: your lifestyle, your appearance, comfort and protection.
For office work, choose lightweight lenses with an anti-reflective coating, which reduces the glare from artificial lighting. Glare is the main cause of eye fatigue at a desk, and the coating is the single most useful lens option for that setting.
Frequently asked questions
What frame suits a round face?
Angular, narrow or rectangular frames with straight lines, which add the length and angles a round face lacks.
What suits a square face?
Narrow oval frames, slightly curved, wider than they are tall, sitting high enough to play down the jawline.
How do I know if my coloring is warm or cool?
It is determined by your skin, eye and hair color together. Warm coloring suits gold, camel and coral; cool coloring suits black, plum and blue-gray.
Which lens coating should I get for office work?
Anti-reflective, which cuts glare from artificial lighting and reduces eye fatigue.
See also our report on frame styles and shapes.
