Cotton is one fiber and dozens of fabrics. What separates muslin from poplin, or sateen from percale, is entirely how the yarn is woven and finished, and those differences decide what each cloth is good for.
These twenty-four are the cotton weaves you will meet most often, grouped by what they are like to handle rather than alphabetically.
Sheer and very light cottons
Organdy
Very thin and transparent, with a crisp finish. Organdy is the stiffest of the sheers, which is why it holds a shape where softer sheers collapse.
Gauze
Sheer and lightly woven, with an open structure. Also made in silk.
Swiss
A sheer, very fine cotton. It can be plain, or decorated with dots or other woven designs, in which case it is usually called dotted Swiss.
Lawn
Soft, very light, plain woven from combed cotton, with a crisp finish. Lawn is the classic summer blouse and dress fabric.
Dimity
Sheer and thin, white or printed, with lengthwise stripes, cords or checks woven in.
Plain and shirting weights
Muslin
A plain woven cotton ranging from sheer to coarse, available in natural color or dyed. Muslin is the standard fabric for making up a test garment before cutting into expensive cloth.
Pima cotton
An excellent quality cotton made from Egyptian cotton, using long fibers. It is strong, silky to the touch and has a characteristically fine luster.
Fiber length is what makes the difference. Longer fibers produce smoother, stronger yarn with fewer projecting ends, which is why pima feels different from ordinary cotton before you look at it.
Poplin
A plain weave with a crosswise rib. The rib comes from a heavier weft yarn crossing a finer warp.
Percale
Lightweight, sturdy and closely woven, frequently found printed in dark colors. The close weave is what makes percale a standard bedding fabric.
Oxford
A shirting fabric with a lustrous, soft finish, characterized by narrow stripes and woven in either plain or basket weave. Oxford is also a term for a wool fabric mixing black and white fibers.
Gingham
Washable, lightweight and stout, woven in plaids, checks or stripes. The pattern is woven rather than printed, so it appears identically on both faces.
Seersucker
Lightweight cotton crinkled into lengthwise stripes. The crinkle is structural, produced by tensioning some warp yarns differently, and it holds the fabric away from the skin, which is why seersucker is cool to wear and needs no pressing.
Polished cotton
Either a plain weave or a satin weave cotton, chemically finished to appear shiny.
Sateen
A satin weave cotton. The satin structure floats yarns across the surface, producing sheen from a matte fiber.
Twills and sturdy cottons
Drill
A strong twilled cotton, used for men’s and women’s trousers.
Whipcord
A strong fabric with diagonal round cords, also produced in wool. The pronounced diagonal is the identifying feature.
Duck
Tightly woven, heavy and durable. Heavyweight duck is used for tents and awnings; lighter duck goes into summer clothing.
Sailcloth
A strong, heavy canvas or duck made in plain weave.
Napped and pile cottons
Flannel
Plain or twill weave with a slight nap raised on one or both sides. The nap traps air, which is what makes flannel warm.
Flannelette
A very soft cotton with a nap on one side only.
Outing flannel
A soft plain weave or twill napped on both sides, used for baby clothes, diapers and sleepwear.
Velveteen
An all-cotton pile fabric with a short pile resembling velvet.
Terry cloth
A looped pile fabric, either knitted or woven, and very absorbent, which is why it is the standard towel fabric. French terry is looped on one side and sheared pile on the other.
Diaper cloth
An absorbent cotton woven in dobby, twill or plain constructions.
Choosing a cotton
| If you need | Choose |
|---|---|
| Sheer and crisp | Organdy |
| Sheer and soft | Gauze or Swiss |
| A summer blouse | Lawn or dimity |
| A shirt | Oxford, poplin or broadcloth |
| Cool in heat, no ironing | Seersucker |
| Sheen without silk | Sateen or polished cotton |
| Trousers | Drill or whipcord |
| Hard wear | Duck or sailcloth |
| Warmth | Flannel or flannelette |
| Absorbency | Terry cloth or diaper cloth |
| A test garment | Muslin |
| The best quality | Pima |
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between sateen and satin?
Satin is a weave structure. Sateen is that weave worked in cotton, which gives cotton a sheen without using silk.
Why is seersucker crinkled?
The crinkle is woven in by tensioning some warp yarns differently. It holds the fabric off the skin, which keeps it cool, and it never needs pressing.
What makes pima cotton better?
Longer fibers, which spin into smoother, stronger yarn with fewer projecting ends.
What is muslin used for?
Making up a test garment before cutting expensive fabric, as well as being a finished cloth in its own right.
See also wool fabric weaves, silk fabric weaves and the guide to fabrics and sewing techniques.
