These are the three heel shapes most people actually own, and the differences between them are measurable rather than stylistic. One is defined by being short, one by being slim, and one by what sits under the front of the foot.
Kitten heels
A kitten heel is a kind of stiletto: short, delicate and slender. The distinction is purely height. A stiletto heel shorter than five centimeters is what gets called a kitten heel.
The heights
Kitten heels generally run from about 1.5 to 2 inches, which is roughly five centimeters or less. Some are as low as three centimeters, which is barely a lift at all and reads almost as a flat with a shaped back.
Why they work
Audrey Hepburn wore the style and made it popular, and it has never really gone away since. The reason is that a kitten heel gives the shape of a heeled shoe with very little of the cost. The foot is barely pitched forward, so the pressure on the toes stays low and the shoe stays walkable all day.
They work particularly well with short skirts, where the delicate proportion of the heel matches the amount of leg on show.
Stiletto heels
A stiletto heel is long and sleek, slim along its entire length rather than tapering. The range is wide, running from one inch to eight inches and beyond.
The hybrid version
Some stilettos combine the shape with a platform. These carry a hidden platform under the front of the shoe, followed by a very sleek and long stiletto heel at the back. The hidden platform is doing real work, and it is worth understanding why. It raises the front of the foot as well as the back, so the angle between them drops. An eight-inch heel with a two-inch concealed platform pitches the foot like a six-inch heel, while still looking like an eight-inch shoe.
The trade-off
Stilettos are streamlined, elegant and highly stylized, and the taller they get the more striking they look. They also offer very little support and are not especially comfortable. The narrow base concentrates the whole load onto a small contact patch, which is what makes them both unstable and hard on the foot.
That is the honest position on stilettos. They look the way they do because of the same geometry that makes them uncomfortable, and no amount of padding changes it.
Platform heels
The thick platform heel has been a lasting favorite, and its appeal is practical as much as visual.
Why they are more comfortable
Platform heels are comfortable to walk in compared with pointed pencil heels, for two separate reasons.
- The pitch is lower. Raising the front of the foot as well as the back reduces the angle the foot is held at, which is what causes most of the discomfort in a tall shoe.
- The base is wider. A thick heel spreads the load over a much larger contact area, so the shoe is far more stable and does not sink into soft ground.
The wedge is the fullest version of this idea, where the platform and the heel become a single solid piece running the length of the sole. That gives the most support of any raised shoe, at the cost of all flexibility in the sole.
Choosing between them
- All-day wear. Kitten heels. Low pitch, low pressure, no real penalty.
- Maximum height and elegance for a few hours. Stilettos, ideally with a concealed platform.
- Height plus the ability to walk and stand. Platforms or wedges.
- Soft ground, grass, gravel. Platforms and wedges, always. A stiletto tip sinks.
For the less common shapes see feature, tapered and spool heels, and for how height changes an outfit see matching shoes with the right outfit.
Frequently asked questions
What exactly is a kitten heel?
A stiletto heel under five centimeters, usually about 1.5 to 2 inches.
Does a platform make a high heel easier to wear?
Yes, measurably. It raises the front of the foot, which reduces the angle the foot is held at, and it widens the base.
How tall can a stiletto be?
Commonly up to eight inches, and higher versions exist. Above about four inches a concealed platform is usually doing part of the work.
Are wedges the same as platforms?
A wedge is a platform taken to its conclusion, where the raised sole runs unbroken from toe to heel rather than sitting only under the front.
