This is an archive trend report from the Fall Winter 2009/2010 season.
The palette that season was shaped directly by the recession. Designers worked in two directions at once: dark, sober tones reflecting the mood, and bright, warm, nature-inspired shades intended to supply some optimism against it. The result was an unusually wide range, running from blacks and grays through to electric and neon hues, with monochrome dressing prominent throughout.
One thing before the colors
You do not have to wear all of them, and you should not try. Some colors do not suit some skin tones, and some you will simply dislike. Choose the ones you want to wear.
Blacks, browns, grays, reds, oranges, greens, purples and mustard yellows are the reliably wearable end of this palette, and that remains true well beyond the season they were named for.
How to wear a color palette
Color does not have to arrive in a dress. It can come through checks, prints and plaids on coats, shirts and gowns, or through hats, gloves, scarves, jewelry, watches, handbags, footwear and umbrellas.
That is the practical route into any strong palette. Mixing and contrasting through accessories lets you use a difficult color without committing a whole outfit to it.
Black
Classic, elegant and rich, and a black suit or dress is a permanent wardrobe staple rather than a seasonal choice.
Black contrasts strongly with bright tones, so pairing it with red, orange, blue or green produces a bold look. Black with gray is the quieter combination and reads as chic. Black and white remains one of the most popular pairings there is.
Many designers presented their lines in black and gray that season specifically to reflect the general mood.
Gray
As prominent as black that season, and unusually varied. The range ran from dark pavement hues and earthy tints through light tones to sparkling metallics: arsenic, charcoal, seal brown-gray, silver, slate, taupe, purple taupe and rose quartz.
Gray’s value is that it behaves as a neutral while carrying more warmth or coolness than black does, which makes it easier to combine.
Brown
Neutral, rustic and earthy, and it mixes with almost anything. The season’s range covered auburn, bronze, beige, chocolate, copper, khaki, ochre, wheat, rust, sandy, seal and tan.
Red
A designer favorite that season, in shades from dark reds and bright scarlets through crimson, brownish reds, rose, maroon, mauve, vermilion, raspberry, rust and coral.
Red carries associations of vigor, energy and power, which is why it works so well for winter parties. Burgundy was also prominent, reading as more luxurious and restrained than a bright red.
Orange
The color of autumn, and of strength and enthusiasm. Orange carries most of red’s energy without its aggression, along with the radiance of yellow.
The season covered the full range: dark oranges, carrot, red-orange, yellowish, pastel, mahogany, pumpkin, tomato, peel, peach, tangerine, pinkish oranges and electric neon shades.
Pink
Associated with femininity and softness, and available across a very wide range: deep pinks, hot pinks, fuchsia, carnation, salmon, calamine, magenta, puce, electric and light pinks.
Blue
The color of the season, with more shades in play than any other: ultramarine, sky, oceanic, royal, greenish, Prussian, peacock, navy, electric, sapphire, turquoise, azure, teal and Yale blues.
Blue is associated with tranquility, stability and intellect, which is a plausible reason it did so well in that particular year.
Green
The nature color, and prominent that season across a wide spread: bluish greens such as sea and forest green, brownish greens such as olive, and light greens, moss, spring, mint, dark, bottle, alpine and racing greens.
Green with purple produces a bold pairing. Charcoal gray, teal blue and regal purple all combine well with it too.
Frequently asked questions
Which of these colors still work?
Black, brown, gray, red, orange, green, purple and mustard yellow are wearable in any season. The neon and electric shades were more specifically of that year.
How do I wear a strong color without committing?
Through accessories. A scarf, bag, glove or shoe carries a difficult color where a whole garment would be too much.
What is the safest color pairing here?
Black with gray, or black with white. Both read as deliberate rather than adventurous.
See also what color to wear for choosing colors by skin tone.
