This is an archive trend report from the Fall Winter 2009/2010 season.
Footwear that season went simple. Designers produced timeless, tough, practical and rustic shoes rather than statement pieces, aimed at a recession audience buying for durability. Nothing in the season was strange or experimental, and boots took over almost completely.
Boots displaced the stiletto
Boots dominated at every length, with over-the-thigh and ankle boots the most popular. Ankle, calf-length and thigh-high all had a presence, and collectively they won out over the stilettos that had dominated previous seasons.
Form-fitting and close-fitting boots were the preferred cut, which is both a style choice and a practical one for cold weather.
Over-the-thigh boots
Stylish and prominent, and worn in a specifically new way. A widespread trend that season had women wearing thigh-high boots as a substitute for trousers, slacks or leggings rather than over them.
Calf-length biker boots
Severe soles and metal detailing gave these their character. Diane von Furstenberg produced versions with heavy soles and metallic detail.
Ankle boots
Lacy ankle boots resembling a bandage wrap, and zipped ankle boots, were both prominent. Tough military and motorbike styling ran through the category, with Anna Sui among the names most associated with it.
Construction and detail
The shoes were simple, refined and classic. As the season itself acknowledged, they followed trends rather than set them, which was a direct consequence of the economic moment.
- Hardware detailing. Iron and other metallic tips with intricate patterns and carving.
- Toe shapes. Square, round and oval all in use.
- Reduced detailing overall, a deliberate response to cost.
- Heels up to around six inches, with Cuban heels providing grip at any height.
- Platform heels, high and sculptured. Phillip Lim showed very high platforms with metallic details and lace-up ankle boots.
- Tough, strong soles throughout.
- Zipper closures and bandage-style lacing across most styles, with strapless shoes also present.
Colors
Considerably more restrained than the preceding summer. Designers went practical and unexperimental, and what had been dull in summer became the season’s palette.
- The core. Blacks, browns, grays and reds.
- Neutrals. Beiges, grays, taupes and nudes.
- The season’s favorites. Cherry red, berry brown and cognac.
- Deep tones. Dark reds, dark violets, dark blues and dark greens.
Materials
Soft textures that allow the foot to move were the priority, particularly for tall boots where stiffness makes walking difficult.
- Over-the-knee boots. Leather, suede, drape, silk or lace. Neutral greens, creams and grays, with olive green and cognac the season’s picks.
- Genuine leather. Matte black and tan read as the most classic. A close-fitting black leather over-the-thigh boot is the one pair that always works.
- Suede. The popular choice for over-the-knee boots, in blacks, browns, grays and reds. Suede and nude tones were frequently combined that season.
- Linings. Shearling or wool lining in over-the-knee boots, which is what makes a tall boot genuinely warm rather than merely tall.
Other notable pieces included Bruno Frisoni satin booties with zipper closures, fur-rimmed clogs by Diane von Furstenberg, and boots with leather-covered studs.
Frequently asked questions
What defined this season’s footwear?
Boots at every length, practical construction, restrained colors and reduced detailing, all driven by the recession.
Which boot was most versatile?
A close-fitting black leather over-the-thigh boot, which the season’s own guidance singled out as the reliable choice.
Why shearling or wool lining?
Because a tall boot without lining is cold. The lining is what makes the height functional rather than decorative.
See also footwear for women and kitten, stiletto and platform heels.
