Most people dress badly in the monsoon on purpose. The reasoning is sound enough: rain ruins good clothes, so you keep the good clothes indoors and wear whatever you do not mind losing. The result is several months a year spent in the worst things you own.
The premise is wrong, though, because the problem is not quality. It is material. Leather, silk, chiffon, crepe and untreated cotton all fail in wet conditions, and they fail whether they were expensive or cheap. Rubber, nylon, polyurethane-coated fabric, linen and light synthetics survive it. Choose by material and the compromise mostly disappears.
The principle
Three properties decide whether something survives the season, and every recommendation below follows from them.
It has to dry. Anything that holds water stays wet all day, and wet fabric against skin is where most monsoon discomfort comes from. Cotton, linen, light denim and thin synthetics dry. Layers, heavy weaves and thick knits do not.
It has to resist moisture damage. Leather and suede are the main casualties. Damp leather grows mold and bacteria, and the damage is permanent rather than cosmetic. This rules out leather shoes, bags and belts for the season.
It has to hide dirt. Rain does not stain clothes; splashed mud does. Dark and mid-tone colors survive a walk that pale ones do not, and pale fabric also turns transparent when wet.
Umbrellas and raincoats
Umbrellas stopped being purely functional some time ago, and the range now runs well past the black folding kind. Bright and saturated colors are the mainstream choice, with electric pink, green, blue and red the most common. Pastels and neons are both widely available, and floral prints appear on umbrellas, windcheaters and raincoats alike.
Beyond color, the patterns in general circulation are geometrics, abstracts, checks, stripes, polka dots and hearts. Transparent and translucent plastic is a genuinely practical choice rather than only a decorative one, because a clear canopy does not block your view of the street.
For children, the range is wider still: cartoon characters, animal prints and wildlife scenes are all standard, and the hatrella, an umbrella-shaped head covering, is made specifically for them.
Two practical notes. Compact folding umbrellas fit in a handbag, which is the difference between owning one and carrying one; large canopies are the trade-off for better coverage. And when buying a raincoat, choose a belted one. An unbelted raincoat hangs shapelessly over everything underneath it.
A good umbrella also earns its keep out of season, since the same canopy works against sun.
Footwear
Footwear is where the season does the most damage and where the material rule matters most.
Put leather and suede away until winter. Both breed fungus and bacteria when they stay damp, and neither recovers.
Rubber is the material to buy. It is waterproof, it dries quickly, it washes clean and moisture does not degrade it. Rubber sandals, slippers, mules and flats all work.
Choose straps over slip-ons. A strap holds the shoe on your foot when the ground is slick, which is the difference between walking normally and walking carefully. Ankle straps give the most hold. Strappy floaters and sandals also let the skin breathe, which closed shoes do not.
Skip heels. A heel concentrates your weight on a small contact patch and gives up the grip you need on wet, muddy ground. Flat boots replace heeled ones for the season.
Boots work, with one exclusion. Rain boots and gumboots are rubber and keep out water, mud and dirt entirely. Lycra boots also survive the season. Leather boots do not.
Flip-flops and flats handle muddy ground easily, with the caveat that an open back flicks mud up your legs in heavy rain. They pair better with a short skirt or capris than with anything long.
Crocs work on every practical count. They do not go with a saree.
Color is worth a thought, since rubber footwear is not limited to brown and black. Transparent and bright versions are widely made, in hot pink, red, orange, navy and green.
For children, laced shoes are safer than slip-ons because they stay on. Cotton socks are worth adding: they dry quickly and put a layer between skin and a damp shoe. Boys’ ranges include sports sandals and knee-length gumboots.
Clothes
What works
Knee-length skirts and short shirt dresses. These suit most shapes and sizes and keep the hem clear of the ground, which is where the mud is. Short flared skirts cut to the knee are the most useful single shape for the season.
Natural fabrics that dry fast. Cotton and linen both dry quickly and wash easily. Blended cotton and poly-nylon dry quickly and resist creasing as well. Enzyme-washed satins and crushed poly-viscose knits are the dressier options that still handle damp.
Asymmetric kaftans, in synthetic fabric, worn over a fitted mini skirt.
Lightweight denim, which is manageable and dries reasonably fast. Heavy denim is not.
Harem pants and balloon dresses, both of which keep fabric away from the leg.
Lycra t-shirts and jersey dresses, both of which handle damp without losing shape.
Light cotton leggings. The lighter the weight, the faster they dry.
On color. Dark shades hide mud spotting, so grey, black, beige, brown and khaki are the practical range. Bright colors are the other approach: fuchsia, blue and green, and pastels in orange, pink and green.
What to avoid
Leather in any garment, for the reasons above.
Ankle-length skirts and trousers. The hem sits exactly where the water and mud are, and it stays wet for the rest of the day.
Layers. Once soaked they take hours to dry, and until they do you are wearing all of them wet.
Chiffon and crepe. Both lose their sheen permanently once wet.
Silk. Delicate and high-maintenance in the best conditions, and these are not those.
Long dressy skirts and dresses. Same problem as ankle-length hems, with more fabric to dry.
Heavy denim, which absorbs water and stays wet.
Pale colors, which turn transparent when wet.
Handbags
The rule from footwear applies again. Leather bags grow fungus and bacteria when damp, so they are not the ones to carry now. Patent leather is the exception and tolerates some moisture, since the coating is what the water meets.
Beyond that, buy for waterproofing. A bag is not only a thing that can be ruined, it is the thing protecting your phone, wallet and keys.
The materials that work are polyurethane-coated fabric, which is water-resistant, nylon, which keeps contents dry, and transparent plastic, which is both practical and current.
What to leave at home is embroidered cotton. Cotton goes limp when wet, loses its shape, shrinks and discolors, and an embroidered bag will not recover from any of that. Anything antique or exquisite belongs in a cupboard until the season ends.
Hair
Keep the style simple and choose one that still works wet, because it will be. Short hair is easier to manage through the season than long.
Wash frequently with a mild shampoo. Skip conditioner, which leaves hair looking limp in humidity, and skip wax and gel, which do not survive rain.
Make-up
Light, simple and waterproof. Waterproof foundation, eyeliner, mascara and kajal are the practical baseline, and a waterproof moisturizer helps with the dryness that comes with the season.
Colors that work. Pastels on the cheeks, with brown, pink or cream blush and rosy undertones. Pencil eyeliners in sea green and aqua blue. Matte, soft lipsticks and lip balms.
What to skip. Liquid lip colors, which do not last in humidity. Running an ice cube over your face helps with sweat damage to skin.
Jewellery
Glass beads and bangles are the right choice, since rain does not affect them at all. Heavy antique jewellery is not: this is the season it is most at risk and least worth wearing.
Belts
Leather again, and again the answer is no. Damp leather is where mold and bacteria start.
Rubber is the alternative, and it is made in bright electric colors as well as the usual black, brown and grey. Detailed and embellished water-resistant belts are also widely available.
Storing things through the season
Most monsoon damage happens in the cupboard rather than in the rain, because things get put away damp.
Air everything. Hang accessories in open air rather than putting them straight into storage.
Clean before airing, so you are not drying dirt into the material.
Keep them out of direct sun and heat. Drying fast is not the same as drying well, and both damage leather and dyes.
Watch leather especially. Mold takes hold quickly once it is damp, and by the time it shows, the damage is done.
Store in a cool, dry place, packed and protected from rodents.
Quick reference
| Material | In the monsoon | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Rubber | Best choice | Waterproof, washable, dries fast, unaffected by damp |
| Nylon and PU-coated fabric | Best choice | Water-resistant, keeps contents dry |
| Transparent plastic | Best choice | Completely unaffected by water |
| Cotton and linen | Good | Dry quickly and wash easily |
| Blended cotton, poly-nylon | Good | Dry fast and resist creasing |
| Lycra and jersey | Good | Handle damp without losing shape |
| Light denim | Acceptable | Manageable; heavy denim stays wet |
| Patent leather | Acceptable | The coating tolerates some moisture |
| Chiffon and crepe | Avoid | Lose their sheen permanently once wet |
| Silk | Avoid | Delicate and high-maintenance when damp |
| Embroidered cotton | Avoid | Goes limp, shrinks, loses shape and discolors |
| Leather and suede | Avoid | Breed mold and bacteria; damage is permanent |
Frequently asked questions
What is the best footwear for the monsoon?
Rubber, with straps. Rubber is waterproof, washable and dries fast, and a strap keeps the shoe on your foot on slippery ground. Rain boots give the most protection; strappy rubber sandals and flats are the everyday version. Avoid leather, suede and heels.
Can I wear leather in the rain?
No. Damp leather breeds mold and bacteria and the damage does not reverse. This covers shoes, bags and belts. Patent leather is the one exception, because the coating takes the moisture instead of the hide.
Which fabrics dry fastest?
Cotton, linen, blended cotton and poly-nylon, light denim and thin synthetics. Blended cotton and poly-nylon have the advantage of not creasing either. Avoid layers, heavy weaves, chiffon, crepe and silk.
What colors should I wear in the monsoon?
Dark and mid-tones hide splashed mud, so grey, black, beige, brown and khaki are the practical range. Pale colors are the ones to avoid, both because they show dirt and because they turn transparent when wet.
How do I stop monsoon clothes and bags from getting ruined in storage?
Clean them, air them in open air away from direct sun and heat, and store them packed in a cool dry place. Most damage happens after the rain, when something damp goes into a cupboard and grows mold there.
What jewellery is safe to wear in the rain?
Glass beads and bangles, which water does not affect. Heavy antique pieces are the ones to keep aside for the season.
See also how to take care of your feet in the monsoons, the footwear guide and the handbags guide.
